1. Brian----- Who are you and WHAT DO YOU DO?

I buy luxury and economical cars, (lots and lots of cars), trucks ,and SUV’s. My California Dealers license allows me to buy all these for retail customers and I do it at TRUE DEALERS PRICES with a flat markup over costs.

2. Brian, TELL ME ABOUT YOURSELF.

I am an experienced individual in this industry.  I am a business owner (Superior Auto Institute-www.nodents.com   Cars have always been my passion.  After gaining real experience in all facets of the auto industry, including marketing for a retail dealer, I listened to customers and watched how they were dissatisfied with continued traditional dealer operations and customer service.  I soon realized that if I could offer these cars directly to the public, without the exhorbitant markup traditional dealers require, by design.

I am a auto expert who hand picks cars at DEALERS ONLY AUCTIONS for customers who contact me. 

3. WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF BUYING THROUGH YOU?

My Prices are DEALERS ONLY AUCTION PRICES; I charge a flat fee over costs; I am helpful and provide a no pressure way to shop for a car, and–most importantly–I really know the business; and I give great advice about where the bargains are, and how to get them.  My advice is not colored by making more money on one car than another, since I only charge a flat fee over costs.  Finally, I am business owner–not a car salesman! Therefore, I am very straight forward (rare for this industry) AND a large portion of my business comes from people who have previously bought vehicles from me, or referral.

4. WHAT COSTS CAN I EXPECT?

Here is a list of probable expenses for which the customer will be financially responsible: (You would normally pay these costs, regardless of whom you bought the vehicle from–dealer or private party.)

VEHICLE- The cost of the vehicle

AUCTION BUYERS FEE-tacked on by the auction to cover their costs, and paid by all buyers–in the order of $150-350– depending on car price.

TAXES.  In California this depends on the county.  Usually between 7.50 % in Orange County, to 8.0% in Los Angeles County.  Out-of-state buyers pay their own state taxes and licensing.

LICENSING AND REGISTRATION. Whatever the due DMV fees are.  From a Minimum of $15 for a simple transfer on a vehicle with time left on the sticker, to a full term registration cost close to 3% of vehicle price.  Higher costs, if there are penalties.

SMOG- A full blown vehicle inspection and smog costs $80-120.

Transportation Fee-$50 to transport from the auction

DOCUMENT FEE- California Luxury Cars charges $45 to do all the paperwork involved in registration and transfer of the vehicle.  You don’t go to DMV–I go;and I take care of ALL the paperwork.

California Luxury Car FEE schedule- 

$1000 for a vehicle over $40,000

$950 for a vehicle over $30,000 to $40,000

$900 for a vehicle between $20,000 and $30,000

$800 for a vehicle price of $10,000 to $20,000

$750 for a vehicle price between $9000 and $10,000

$600 for a vehicle price between $8000 and $9000

$500 for a vehicle price under $8000

THE BOTTOM LINE IS this: THE CUSTOMER AGREES TO PAY FOR ALL COSTS FOR THE VEHICLE, PLUS THE CALIFORNIA LUXURY CARS FEE. THE LIST ABOVE IS TYPICALLY THE COSTS THAT ARE  ENCOUNTERED. 

THE REAL BOTTOM LINE IS, YOU WILL SAVE ABOUT $3000 OVER BUYING AT A COMMERCIAL LOT.

CALIFORNIA LUXURY CARS CUSTOMARILY RECEIVES A $1000 DOWN PAYMENT, BEFORE IT AGREES TO BUY A VEHICLE FOR A CUSTOMER.

If a vehicle is not purchased, 100% of this down payment is returned.  If the vehicle is purchased, 100% of this down is used for the associated costs of the purchase.  The down payment is not refundable if the purchaser does not want the agreed upon purchased vehicle or is not able to complete all the financial and legal elements of the transaction in a reasonably timely manner.

5. DO YOUR CARS DIFFER FROM THE USED CARS SOLD IN FRANCHISE DEALERSHIPS AND USED CAR LOTS?

In terms of quality, appearance and delivery, they don’t. In terms of price, we are MUCH less $$$.
 

6. WHY ARE YOUR PRICES SO MUCH LOWER?

Because my overhead costs are very minimal.  Major dealerships have huge costs, rent on a large lot and building, labor costs, and flooring costs on cars.  Their biggest cost may well be depreciation of their stock of vehicles, as their inventory ages. They have scores and scores of employees, salesmen, sales managers, closers, F & I people, the boss . 
Somebody has to pay these people–and it's you, the customer!

7. WHERE DO YOU BUY YOUR VEHICLES?

Primarily at DEALERS ONLY AUCTIONS, the same place where the big Ford, Chevy, Toyota, Lexus, Infiniti, Mitsubishi, etc dealers buy their cars.  I stand shoulder to shoulder with them, buying the same cars, with the same quality, and the same warrantees and guarantees, except we dont tack on the overhead, but rather sell the car for the buy fee.

 8. HOW IS THE QUALITY OF OUR VEHICLES?

Most of the vehicles I buy for my clients are less than 3 years old (usually 2 to 3 year off lease), low mileage, excellent conditioned, clean-titled vehicles.  Many have the original factory warrantees left on them or seller guarantees on the engine, drive train, frame and title. Most are in Front Line Ready condition, which means they are ready for a dealer to put them on his lot to sell to you.

9. WHAT IS A WARRANTEE AND HOW DO I GET ONE?

A manufacture's warrantee is the best thing that can happen to you. These warrantees are good usually for 36,000 miles on cars and trucks, and may go up to 60,000 miles on luxury and import vehicles. Warrantees are put forth by the manufacturer of the vehicles , such as Ford, GM, Toyota, etc.  They essentially cover the vehicle bumper to bumper, and are scrupulously serviced by the manufacturer.  Factory Warrantees will take care of problems–from a blown engine, to a broken door handle knob.  Detroit, Tokyo or Berlin guarantees the vehicle, not the auction, not the seller, and not Brian.  This is as safe as you can get.  You automatically take over the remainder of the existing warrantee on cars you buy. The warranty goes with the car, not the dealer, so you are safe when buying a car with the factory warranty.

10. WHAT IS A GUARANTEED CAR?

The seller of a vehicle through the auction may guarantee a vehicle. This guarantee is more limited in scope and time frame than the factory warrantee.  Usually it covers the lower part of the engine, valves, rings, pistons, oil leaks, bad gaskets, cracked block, etc., as well as the tranny, the frame and the title.  It does not cover smaller items, like water pumps and broken door handles.  The guarantee also is only good for very small amount of time, and it expires, usually at the end of business that day– or early the next day.  What this means is, I get the vehicle out of the auction ASAP and into my mechanic, who thoroughly checks over the vehicle.  He does a type II Emissions smog check (which is a great check on the engine), a test-drive, puts the vehicle up on a rack, and checks it over completely. He checks over the major systems. He also does the usual safety inspection.  He makes sure, if there are any problems, we know about them before the time limit; and we can return the vehicle if there are any problems. 

11. HOW MANY OF YOUR CUSTOMERS HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH CARS THEY PURCHASED IN THE LAST FEW YEARS?

NONE!

12. BRIAN, I AM CONCERNED ABOUT THE SAFETY OF MY DEPOSIT.

I don’t blame you, BUT I have been doing this for years, and I can supply you with the names of previous customers who have RECENTLY bought cars from me.  I can also point you in the direction of DMV licensing people who can attest to the fact that I am a licensed dealer in good standing. Tell me what else you need to make you feel comfortable dealing with me and I will try to provide it. We take a deposit so if the customer changes their mind on an interior trim color etc., we are not stuck with a car that we now have to sell. We want to be sure you are certain about the car you want, and our efforts, time and expertise are not wasted.

13. WHAT IS YOUR TYPICAL CLIENT LIKE?

Most of my customers are working professionals.  I sell an equal amount of vehicles to males and females. They are Physicians, Attorneys, engineers, graduate students, and lots of business people.  

 14. CAN YOU TAKE MY TRADE IN?

Yes, but we prefer to buy auction cars only. Give us the specs on the car, and we'll give you a fair trade- in #.  When you come to pick up the new vehicle you purchased from us, bring your trade with you, so we can correctly evaluate it.

15. HOW DO YOU HANDLE THE FINANCIAL ISSUES?

I accept cash,   I also take cashiers checks.  Most of my customers get their own financing from a credit union, banks, etc. Call if you should need assistance or direction.  All of these are very acceptable.  I do, however, sometimes buy vehicles either as trade-ins, or just as a favor to a customer. Basically, you get your own cash or financing.  I have sources, but they can be more expensive than your sources. If you need financing, a great place to get it is www.peoplefirst.com– low rates and quick approval for people with very good credit. Peoplefirst is not the best choice for people with below average credit. .

 16. CAN I PREVIEW THE VEHICLES, OR AM I BUYING BLIND?

The auctions are DEALERS ONLY.  Inspection sheets and photos may be available before the sale.  Call me for more details.  The morning of the sale, the cars are open with the keys in them.  We thoroughly inspect your vehicle picks, and call you before the sale begins.

17. WHAT KIND OF VEHICLES ARE SOLD AT DEALERS ONLY AUCTIONS? 

Dealers’ only wholesale auctions are very different from other open to the public retail auctions and are a source of great bargains with safety, guarantees warrantees, and reliability.  Virtually every dealer, new car franchise or small lot owner buys cars at these DEALER ONLY AUCTIONS. Did you know that 40% of all new vehicles sold in California are 2 and 3-year leases?  When the leases are over most of these vehicles, 2 year old off lease low mileage great condition vehicles are wholesaled to dealers for eventual sale to retail customers.  They usually sell for LOWER prices than the original franchise dealer would sell YOUR leased car back to YOU.  If you think that ALL 2 year old Lexus, Honda, Ford, Lincoln, Caddy, Toyota or Chrysler (and more!) are junk then you ought to consider buying new at literally twice the price.

There are, of course, sections in the auction that specialize in older AS-IS vehicles. I don’t buy these types of vehicles for myself or for my customers.

18. WHAT ABOUT THE OPEN-TO-THE-PUBLIC AUCTIONS FEATURING DRUG DEALER'S CARS,
POLICE CARS AND REPOS?

Open to the public auctions are, by their nature, RETAIL auctions, and sell vehicles to the public at retail–or above–prices.  These auctions pit professional sellers against the general public, who really have no idea of what they are doing. Most of these vehicles are sold AS-IS, and a lot of charges are tacked on–especially if you are financing through the auctions.  Most Drug Dealer cars are not nearly new Porsches, but beat up ‘82 Corollas; most people don’t want police cars because they are frequently beat up; and REPOS are nothing special. 

19. WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF DEALING WITH A PERSON LIKE YOU?

I am a auto expert, with no preference to any manufacturer or brand of car.  My primary focus is to get my customers “fair deals” on cars of their choice, and to provide quick and immediate delivery.  I don’t do financing.  That is your responsibility.   I try to “advise” the people who buy from me–and who put their trust in my experience and judgment–in the right direction, and save them time and money. I enjoy my customers’ satisfaction and good will.

My secondary focus is to avoid the kind of pressure, tactics and questionable dealings that usually come with dealerships trying to maximize their profits, and selling what they have on their small lots.  I charge a flat fee over costs; so I really don’t care what you buy. I have access to perhaps 20,000 cars/week at 5 major dealer- only auctions, as well as remote access to cars at dealer auctions–if you are looking for a hard to find vehicle.  I am business and family man and a no-pressure guy;and my customers are usually well- informed professionals who don’t respond well to pressure.

20. OK, I’M CONVINCED– HOW DO I START THE BUYING PROCESS?

Call me at 714- 449- 0066–we'll talk things over, and see what makes sense for you!